Andre Courreges- Fashion Modernist

1969, Paris, France — Fashion Designer Andre Courreges

Courreges was born March 9, 1923 in Pau, France. He studied and became a civil engineer, he was always interested in architecture and textile design. He worked, designing footwear and men’s clothing for a tailor, while occupying himself with Rugby and Mountain climbing. From 1941-1945 Courreges was a pilot in the Air Force in World War II.
In 1945, He came to Paris and worked briefly for a designer named Jeanne LaFaurie. In 1950 he was apprenticed to the Master, Cristobal Balenciaga, also from the Basque region, although he was from Spain. He had been keen to join him for a long time, but only in 1950 did a position open up. He still considers Balenciaga his mentor. He stayed   for ten years.
Andre Courreges opened his own house, “Maison de Courreges“ at 48 ave Kleber in 1961. He launched his ‘Space Age’ collection in 1964. He built his dresses rather than designed them. The shapes of his clothes were geometric: squares, trapezoids, triangles. The look included boots, goggles, and Dress and Skirt hems three inches above the knee. The main features of his boxy, uncluttered look spread quickly throughout the fashion world, especially the miniskirt, which he introduced to France. The materials included plastic and metal. He used PVC clothing in his collections. Colours were primary: white, red, yellow, pink, ice-blue, pale turquoise, day-glow orange and lime green…The year 1964 was HIS year, the start of his brief reign as King of Paris Fashion. He also created the MOON GIRL look. In 1965 Courreges reorganized his company, and briefly before he changed his salon, banned the press from his collections (as Balenciaga had also done). When he re-opened, he had a carefully planned 3-tier structure:
„Prototypes“, his couture division „Couture future“, his de-luxe ready to wear „hyperbole“, inexpensive ready to wear.
His new store was located at 40 ave Francois premier.

Andre Courreges pink coat- Vogue Sept 1968

Andre Courreges Jumper- Vogue March 1972

In 1967 he married his assistant, Coqueline Barriere, who had also been a Balenciaga pupil. Courrèges’ fashion shows were organised by his wife. These were lively presentations featuring athletic, partially nude models. During this year, Courreges began to experiment with tops with sequins and transparency, and designed a see-through mini in sheer organza, appliquéd with his flat round daisies.

In 1968 Courreges hit the headlines with his SPACE AGE collection. His clothes at this time, were functional, uncluttered, futuristic designs. He was fascinated by metal and put his models into metal brassieres and bustiers. Andy Warhol said “Courreges clothes are so beautiful, everyone should look the same, dressed in silver. Silver merges into everything, costumes should be worn during the day with lots of make-up.” Courreges’ clothes were sharp, angular and subject to a highly disciplined design. Simple, stark, trapeze-shape dresses and coats were boldly piped in contrasting colours.
In the early 70’s however, fashion was moving away from the “Space Age” look and there was a passion for romantic clothes, flowery, ethnic peasant looks, etc. Courreges softened the austerity of his clothes by using curves and showing knitted catsuits, and all-white collections.

1971 He introduced the Hyperbole line of sportswear for younger clients.
1972 Courreges was given the honour of designing the garments for 15,000 employees at the 1972 Summer Olympics, in 10 different styles.
1973 He launched his menswear line Courreges Homme.
1979 He diversified into fine leather goods, beauty products and other related products.

Courreges- Vogue March 1970 Page 2

Courreges- Vogue March 1970 Page 1

1982 In the book 2001, he predicted that clothes would go in the direction of tights, stretching in all directions and body stockings, and it does seem that fashion is going in that direction.

1985 The Japanese group Itokin, took a financial interest in the firm, although Andre Courreges is still designing his beautiful clothes.
In the mid-90’s, when Andre Courreges age crossed 70 he brought in Jean Charles de Castelbajac who began designing for the house of Andre Courreges. Courreges himself still keeps an overall eye on the designs made by his house.

Courreges- Vogue 1977

Courreges Sportswear- Vogue March 1978

Where do his tennis dresses, his sailor dresses come from? Where did he find them? On the steps of Delphi. In the wardrobe of Electra. They are modern and they are antique.’
Violette Leduc ‘Is Courrèges Wearable?’ Vogue, 1965.

Courreges in Shuushuu y Lulu :

Courreges Black Teal Wool Acrylic Knit Dress

Click on the image and it will take you to the store…
Resources:

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Courr%C3%A8ges

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/people-pages/andre-courreges

http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/andre-courreges/

I hope you enjoyed this blog about a classic Designer…equally worth collecting!!! Till Next Time!!

George Stavrinos- Graphic Fashion Illustrator

I admit that looking at a George Stavrinos Illustration of a Gianfranco Ferre Design back in the eighties had a huge impact on my own style of Fashion Illustration. I wish I still had those drawings still. His drawings were done in pencil in an architectural constructivist style.

Stavrinos-Vogue March 1978

George Stavrinos was born in 1948, a son of Greek immigrants, who made a home in Somerville. he graduated from the Rhode Island School of Design in 1969. After a year of study abroad he began working for Pushpin Studios. He had a successful career as a fashion illustrator, creating powerful visual identities for Bergdorf Goodman and other retailers. He also art directed Hollywood films, including “Union City” (1980), and illustrated books. While primarily an illustrator, the influenced of his teachers Harry Callahan and Aaron Siskind at Rhode Island can certainly be seen in his photography. Stavrinos’s work is included in many specialty design collections, including the Frances Neady Collection and the Leslie-Lohman Gay Art Foundation. his drawings and illustrations soon began to appear in The New York Times, Gentleman’s Quarterly and Cosmopolitan. He did freelance work for Barney’s Clothes, Bergdorf Goodman and Push Pin Studio.

Stavrinos- Vogue April 1985

In the mid-1980’s he created a series of drawings that were used to promote the repertory of the New York City Opera. His work was exhibited in galleries in Manhattan, Los Angeles, Chicago, San Francisco, Washington, Providence, London, Paris and Tokyo. He was 42 years old and lived in Manhattan. He died of complications of pneumonia at Beth Israel Hospital in Manhattan in 1990. He was a 2007 inductee into the Society of Illustrators Hall of Fame.

Stavrinos- Vogue November 1984

Stavrinos- Vogue September 1983

Vogue April 1983

 

Resources:

http://www.nytimes.com/1990/08/07/obituaries/george-stavrinos-42-artist-and-illustrator.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Stavrinos

Elsa Schiaparelli

When I was in design school in the mid to late 80s, I knew very little about Elsa Schiaparelli. I knew more about Chanel and even gravitated towards her aesthetic, also because I have a French background. And we share the same birth stone and zodiac sign.

In the early 70s Chanel had passed on and Karl Lagerfeld had taken over the house. Chanel and Elsa were rivals throughout Schiaparelli’s professional life. Maybe this rivalry even, pushed them into the history books: the two most well known women European fashion designers of the 20^th century.

Chanel surpassed Schiaparelli because Elsa had to close her house down in 1954, whereas Chanel kept working and growing her business. Who knows what would have happened if Elsa’s business had kept going.

This year from May 10 to August 19 2012, The Costume Institute and the Metropolitan Museum in New York City will exhibit a retrospective of Elsa Schiaparelli juxtaposed with Miuccia Prada. On the evening of May 7,  The Costume Institute will host its Gala Benefit, which I’m sure will be visited by many Super Stars both famous and infamous.

I have found some beautiful Men’s neckties from the 1950’s, which will be featured in the store Shuushuu by Lulu during the month of May as the retrospective at the Met in NYC fast approaches. These ties have the signature fuchsia logo lining and the label with Her Signature and the poodle attached.

A Short Bio:

Elsa Schiaparelli was a French- Italian Fashion Designer, born at the Palazzo Corsini in Rome in 1890. Schiaparelli went on to marry one of her lecturers, Count William de Wendt de Kerlor, a Franco-Swiss Theosophist.  In 1921 they moved to New York, where Schiaparelli immediately responded to the modernity of the city. Schiaparelli did not adapt to the changes in fashion following World War II and her business closed in 1954. She died in Rome, Italy Nov. 1973.

Elsa collaborated with Jean Cocteau, Salvidore Dali, Francis Picabia and Alberto Giacometti. The Surrealists and the Dadaists had a huge influence on her designs. They were highly conceptual and creative. And she designed the first of many prototypes, such as brightly colored zippers, appearing first on her sportswear in 1930 and again five years later on her evening dresses. Not only was she the first to use brightly colored zippers, but she was also the first to have them dyed to match the material used in her garments. She was the first to create and use fanciful buttons that looked more like brooches. They came in the shapes of peanuts, bees, and even ram’s heads. In Parisian fashion, she invented culottes, introduced Arab breeches, embroidered shirts, wrapped turbans, pompom-rimmed hats, barbaric belts, the “wedge,” a soled shoe that would trend through the 20th century and into the next, and mix-and-match sportswear, the concept of which would not be fully recognized for another forty to fifty years.

Elsa Schiaparelli pronounced “Skiaparelli”.

Till Next Time!!!!!!!

What’s New – In Store @ Shuushuu by Lulu

Escada Black Wool Pleated Skirt vs Black Pleated Skirt as seen in Vogue 1970s

Escada Black Pleated Wool Skirt from the 1980s. Made in 100% New Wool in West Germany. I paired it with a lovely secretary blouse in Gray and Black Stripes with a touch of silver (also available in the store) and a black leather Belt by Perry Ellis (also available in store). It’s a smart, chic professional look for the office. Just click on the picture and it will take you into the store.

Esprit de Corp aka Esprit Black Polyester Jersey Button Down Dress vs A white Jersey Dress in Vogue 1970.

This is a fine Black Jersey Espirt de Corp. (Esprit before they dropped the de Corp.) Dress. It has great 1970s vintage styling and a whole lot of potential. This can take you from day to night with just a change of Accessories and still be comfortable and sexy. I have shown it with a red Alexon scarf (Also available in store). Just click on the picture and it will take you into the store.

Diane Von Furstenberg Cotton Ramie Long Sleeve Pullover Sweater vs A pink Gap Cotton ramie Sweater as seen in Vogue 1980s.

The pink version of this sweater is by Gap as seen on Catherine Oxenberg in a Vogue magazine issue from the 1980s. It is a lovely color of cotton/ramie blend. I have the Diane Von Furstenberg version selling in the store. It is soft and super comfy. This gorgeous hue is a pale green like a mint julep sherbert. Just click on the picture and it will take you into the store.

I hope you have enjoyed today’s selection. Till Next Time!!!!!!

Honoring Mothers

I remember when I was a child I was very sick with tonsillitis for about 2 weeks. I would lay on the couch in the living room to watch television because I was home from school. I could not go out to play with my sister or brothers or even friends. Despite my sorrowful state of being the one thing I can recall with love is the way my mother took care of me during this time. My disposition was always one of weakness. I had severe allergies as a child, which resulted in chronic illnesses up till today. But my mother, whom was a registered nurse and took care of so many people during her working years, made time to make sure I got all that I needed while laid up in bed.

One particular day, I was lying on the sofa with a blanket up to my chin. I could not swallow much of any thing, my throat was burning and tight. My Mom would sit by me on a chair and have me drink juice through a straw. We think this is what mother’s are suppose to do, and I am grateful mine did that and so much more. Happy Mother’s Day!!!!!!

Featured in Shuushuu by Lulu: Vintage Scarves and lots of them just in time for Mother’s Day!!!!! Vera, Echo, Ralph Lauren, Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta…ecetera..

Oscar de la Renta Blue Wild Flower Oblong Scarf

Ralph Lauren Tweed and Buckle Print Silk Oblong Scarf

Vera Neumann Geographic Multi-Color Print Oblong Scarf

Bill Blass Red Silk Kerchief Square Scarf

Echo Red White Blue Patriotic Oblong Scarf...Perfect for Independence Day!!!!!

These are just a few of the gorgeous examples for purchase in the store…Check out here for more…http://www.etsy.com/shop/ShuuShuubyLulu?section_id=10504412

Delivery varies from place to place but they are usually shipped light packet from Canada.

Till Next Time!!!!! Lulu

Vintage Clothes- A Song

I was shopping in one of my favorite places to shop, a vintage clothing storing in a neighbouring township. I was skimming through a rack of skirts, when a I heard a song on the stereo system. They were singing about vintage clothes. And I thought it was a Beatles tune, because of the singers voice. It was Paul McCartney. I thought this was a marketing tool put out by the store. He wrote a song about vintage clothing.

Here are the lyrics:

Don’t live in the past
Don’t hold on to something that’s changing fast
What we are, is what we are and what we wear
Is vintage clothes, vintage clothes:

We jump up for joy
Who cares if we look like a girl or boy
What we are, is what we are and what we wear
Is vintage clothes, vintage clothes:

A little more, a little tall
Check the rack
What went out, is coming back

Don’t live in the past
Don’t hold on to something that’s changing fast
What we are, is what we are and what we wear
Is vintage clothes, vintage clothes:

A little more, a little tall
Check the rack
What went out, is coming back

This was one of the songs from the album Memory Almost Full Released in 2007. This sounds like a song that is much older than 5 years old. I guess that’s is just the musical  styling of Paul McCartney. Fashion does have a loop. What was once hot is hot again. The fabric may change but the silhouette is the same. Our bodies don’t change, we still have two arms, two legs, ect. Therefore there is only so much that can be designed to accommodate the figure, whether it is male or female.

Here is an example of Current Style vs. Vintage style:

Jason Wu 2012 vs. Edie Johne (2 piece) 1990s Peplum Dress

The past can be an unlimted and unlimiting source of inspiration for creative people. I have heard that one of my favorite designers Nicholas Ghesquiere has a vast library at his disposal because he is the creative director at Balanciaga. And uses this information to creative modern haute couture for the house, once overseen by its creator Cristobal Balanciaga.

I have uploaded a video of the song Vintage Clothes by Paul McCartney from Youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxn-hvj-nKE

(You can cut and paste the above URL into a new browser window)

Thank you for stopping by…Till Next Time!!!!!

 

The Introduction

Owning something Vintage means owning a piece of history and creating a new history with it. Vintage items have been pre-owned and pre-loved, but when you make that purchase, whether it’s your first or one of many, it will be loved again!

I am blogging because I want to share information about Vintage and Designer vintage Jewelry, clothing, Ect. Also I am learning a great deal about vintage because I am a collector and also a Seller. My shop is http://www.etsy.com/shop/shuushuubylulu.

I took fashion design many moons ago during a time when Canadian designers were getting recognition in the big fashion cities, such as Paris, New York and Milan. Toronto was climbing to the top with the best named houses. It was the beginning of Fashion Cares, a huge party like fashion show to benefit AIDS research. Yes, that was in the early eighties. I attended one of the first few shows while I was in school and pattern making, knit making, Ect. Some of the names I remember back then were Wayne Clarke, Comrags, Lida Baday, Marylin Brooks and Alfred Sung to name a few.

My earliest recollections of Fashion were at the age of thirteen. I was in Trinidad and Tobago visiting my grandmother’s house in Port of Spain. My cousin and I used to look at magazines like Glamour and draw and copy the poses and fashions of the models on those colorful glossy pages. I took these little pictures on pink and orange paper home with me. That was the beginning of a love and hate affair with design. I loved the creative process, the concept, the design but I disliked the sewing. Sewing brought such aggravation and frustration.

And here I am writing about it in present day, with the wonderful technology of the Internet and Blogs. What goes around comes back around. I will write once a week about a different designer. There will be short biographies, Care information, label recognition information, ect. presented each week, usually on Sunday.

Next week Jan. 7 2012: Pierre Cardin.