Dating Vintage by Fabric

The Vintage Fashion Guild recently released a comprehensive guide to fabrics, which includes textures, types of printed patterns, weave, and material. As I was perusing the different fabrics listed there were a few items I think needed to be mentioned to aid in dating vintage clothing as well. Some of these do fall under the category of Polyester and have Trademark names, because the fibres were produced/created by different companies. Companies like ENKA, Imperial Chemical Industries and Dupont. Polyesters are made from chemical substances found mainly in petroleum and are manufactured in fibers. I have included the link to this site:

http://vintagefashionguild.org/fabric-resource-a-z

Crimplene: (polyester) is a thick yarn used to make a fabric of the same name. The resulting cloth is heavy, wrinkle-resistant and retains its shape well. Britain’s defunct ICI Fibres Laboratory developed the fibre in the early 1950s and named it after the Crimple Valley in the UK in which the company was situated. Crimplene was used in garments that required a permanently pressed look, such as skirts and trousers. The fabric enjoyed popularity upon introduction in the 1950s in response to its convenient ‘wash-and-wear’ properties. Crimplene was often used to make the typical A-line dress and 1960s fashion. Likewise, it was popular amongst men in British MOD culture for use in garish button down shirts. In the early 1970s, Crimplene began to fall out of fashion. Other, lighter-weight polyester fabrics like Trevira replaced Crimplene for their ease of movement and ventilation.

Crimplene Label on a 1960s Tennis Dress

Trevira: is a thermoplastic polymer resin of the polyester family and is used in synthetic fibers. Polyester is naturally resilient, meaning it doesn’t wrinkle easily and wrinkles tend to fall out overnight. There were a selection of Vintage Advertisements for this fabric in the 1970s in Vogue magazine.

Trevira Star Vintage Ad Vogue May 1970

Dacron: 1960/70s trademark for a polyester fiber. Dacron is a condensation polymer obtained from ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid. Its properties include high tensile strength, high resistance to stretching, both wet and dry, and good resistance to degradation by chemical bleaches and to abrasion. The continuous filament yarn is used in curtains, dress fabrics, high-pressure fire hoses, men’s shirts, and thread. The staple fiber is ideal for mixing with wool in men’s and women’s suits, as well as in dress fabrics, knitted wear, and washable woven sportswear.

Dacron Advertisement as seen in Vogue 1970s

Celanese Arnel: 1940/50s. AAn Acetate fiber. Just defined as ”synthetic fabric”. Later, you may get your knuckles rapped by the Celanese Corporation, which happens to make Arnel with a capital ”A” and points out that it is a triacetate fiber and not a fabric.

Celanese Arnel Fabric Vintage Advertisement. Cute Skirt!

Orlon: Acrylic. The Dupont Corporation created the first acrylic fibers in 1941 and trademarked them under the name Orlon.

Bianchini Silk: Vintage fabric of silk made by reknowned manufacturer Bianchini- Ferier. Bianchini Férier (originally Atuyer Bianchini Férier) was created in 1888 by three former employees of one of the city’s renowned manufacturers of high fashion silks. They embarked on the manufacture and sale of the highest quality silk fabrics, the haute nouveauté. This was the sector of fabric manufacture most closely linked to Parisian high fashion dress design

Tricopaque: A blend of fibers, including Nylon. I have seen lounge wear in this fabric, most notably from Vanity Fair.

Some of the fabrics or fiber names you may come across in vintage clothing are trademarks and may be mentioned on the labels. These include Vycron, Encron, Corfam, Qiana, Avril, Antron III Nylon and Mylar.

Vycron Advertisment in Life Magazine August 1960

For more information there is a comprehensive handy guide here:

http://reviews.ebay.com/Identifying-Fabrics-amp-Fibers-Details-amp-Burn-Tests?ugid=10000000000951489

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Cole of California Swim Wear-It’s Getting Hot!!!

A sexy post for a hot summer day! It’s 33oC outside and with the humidity rising, it’s getting hotter, and sweatier. Cole of California is an American swim wear company that produces fabulous swim suits for both in and out of the water. Their suits are sexy, functional and may produce strange tan lines.

The Company started out of a knitwear company called West Coast Manchester Knitting Mills by founder Fred Cole back in 1923. Fred Cole was an actor, at the time the family business was making long knit underwear. Fred was not interested in these boring, functional, utilitarian garments. He wanted glamour, the kind he had a taste of in Hollywood. He found Margit Felligi, who was a Costume Designer. And from 1936 to 1972, she designed some of the most creative, provocative and innovative bathing suits during her reign. She was known for her creative use of Latex, Nylon and Spandex. And in 1965 she rocked the swimsuit world with her “Scandal Suit,” a daring one-piece suit with a plunging net front.

Cole of California The Scandal Suit Designed by Margit Felligi in 1965

The Company signed Esther Williams to represent the company, 1950: and in 1951 (before she had her own line) Esther Williams was the spokeswoman for Cole swimsuits. One ad read:

“Here’s the perfect suit for real swimmers… the best I’ve ever worn. It will really do something for your form – in or out of the water.”

Cole of California Produced swim wear for Dior in 1955. They launched the Anne Cole collection in 1982, she is Fred Cole’s daughter. She also introduced the Tankini in 1997. The company is still producing swimwear, with their sister company, Anne Cole, and is designed by Anne.

I pulled some advertisements from Vogue magazines to show a progression of vintage swimwear from a highly collectible name as Cole of California. They are all sexy and cool including the slogan, “Never in the history of Mankind, has so little done so much for so many.”

White Two Piece Swim Suit in Vogue July 1944

                             Black 1 piece Swimsuit Vogue April 1973

 

Cole of California Beach- Leisure Cover Up Vogue Sept 1973-Model looks like Cheryl Tiegs

Cole of California Plunging Neckline Swim Suit- Vogue Nov 1973

Cole of California Vogue Nov 1975

Cole of California Vogue Nov 1976- This suit looks like a second Skin!!!!

Black Micro Polka Dot One Piece Swim Suit in Vogue June 1977

Cole of California Vogue Nov 1977- Love the print on this Swim Suit!!!!

Cole of California Vogue Nov 1981- Great texture and it’s white Ooo La La!!!!

I hope you have enjoyed this post! Till Next Time! Check out my store for other great Swimsuits and for a limited time I have a sale on, look in store announcements for details!!Lulu

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Sandra Leichman- Fashion Illustrator

I could not find very much information on Stephen Keyes, so I tried Sandra Leichman. There wasn’t very much information on the internet about this American fashion illustrator either. Although both artists had features in Vogue magazine presented in different advertisements, there isn’t very much biographical info out there. Sandra Leichman was a staff artist for Fairchild, which also included artists like Antonio Lopez and Steven Meisel among others. There is a book called WWD Illustrated in which Sandra Leichman is featured. As well, a curator named Charles Kleibacker did an exhibition of these works for an Ohio institution back in 2008. The purpose of such an exhibition, featured some 50 garments and more than 100 illustrations, allowed it to expand on the idea of the interplay between garments and their illustrations.

Here are a few examples of Sandra Leichman’s Work as seen in Vogue:

Sandra Leichman- Fashion Illustrator Vogue Nov 1973

Sandra Leichman- Fashion Illustrator Vogue Nov 1975

Sandra Leichman- Fashion Illustrator Vogue Oct 1976

If anyone has information regarding this Fashion Illustrator, I would greatly appreciate it and I will add it to the blog post. Thank you!

I hope you enjoyed this post…Till Next Time!

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What’s New in Store @ Shuushuu by Lulu

Gorgeous White Ruffle Blouse.  Similar seen in Vogue March 1 1969 in an advertisement!!!!!!

This Creamy Milk White Ruffle blouse is a great addition to your wardrobe. It is very pretty and feels cool to the touch. It has jacquard Vertical Stripes and lovely ruffles that will frame your neck and face. It is 100% Polyester. Made in Canada. And is by Ship ‘n’ Shore. This company advertised in Vogue magazine throughout the 70s and 80s. Their clothing were the alternative to the more expensive fashions being advertised in that time. This blouse is in great shape. Click on photo to go to shop!!!!!!!!!!1

Fabulous Mister Leonard Purple Culotte, a similar pair seen in Vogue March 1982

Mister Leonard is a great Canadian women’s fashion Company. It was founded in 1965, by Leonard Wasser and Sam Gertner, growing out of their previous company Pantman. These fantastic culottes are a superb color of Amethyst Purple. They are made of a durable wool fabric designed with great details. Features include buttons inside the pleat on the front left leg and a wrap over closure at waist with a zipper and button fly. There are no pockets so these gems sit straight on the hips. Click on photo to go to shop!!!

I hope you enjoyed this blog…Till Next Time!!!!!! Lulu

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The Evolution of the Bvlgari Ad

This is the evolution of the Bvlgari Advertisements as seen in Vogue magazines from the years of 1970 to 1985. Some of the images depicted will be from Accessory spreads done in the magazines as well.

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About Bulgari:

Italian Jewelers since 1884. The company name was developed on its Greek founders name Sotirio Voulgaris. The store, opened 1905 on the Via dei Condotti,  quickly became a place where the world’s rich and famous came for the unique, high quality jewelry designs combining Greek and Roman art. Today it is a global and diversified luxury brand with a product and services portfolio of jewels, watches, accessories, fragrances, skincare, hotels and resorts featuring exceptional quality, an innovative style and impeccable service.

Each Bulgari jewel is the result of a unique heritage and tradition of excellence. The bold and elegant style that fuses classic and contemporary is the paramount feature of Bulgari’s distinctive jewelry designs. Extraordinary hand-selected stones inspire the design team’s sketches, which are turned into stunning reality in the hands of expert craftsmen.

Bulgari celebrated its 125th Anniversary in 2009. It was acquired by the LVMH Moet Hennesey Louis Vuitton SA Group in 2011. And is now publicly owned by shareholders. (this information was gathered from the Bulgari website ans well as Wikipedia)

There is an amazing selection of vintage jewels in the above slideshow. maybe one day…

I hope you enjoyed this blog…Till Next Time!!!

The 1980’s Bold Shoulder

Claude Montana was the king of the big shoulders in the 1980s. His silhouettes were fantastic and futuristic. He made them for women whom exuded the aura of strength and power. They were not in the least romantic and frilly. He brought the waist in tight using darts or belts to create the inverted triangle shape. He added the large rounded shoulder to exaggerate the figure. Claude Montana was a French Fashion designer, whom won many awards for his clothing design. His house went bankrupt in 1997. He favored monochromatic color, worked in leather, and his silhouettes were clean and structured.

Claude Montana Advertisement in Vogue March 1987

Claude Montana Advert in Vogue- model with a Cigarette

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If I remember correctly the shoulder pads used in jackets like the ones pictured above curved over the shoulder and had a crease/seam down the center to curve over the shoulder and into the top sleeve.

I did not gravitate towards this shape in my younger days. I had large shoulders already because I was a swimmer. I used to have to take the shoulder pads out of clothing to de-emphasize as I was also hour glass shaped. I loved the look created by designers like Claude Montana, Norma Kamali, Geoffrey Beene and Nolan Miller.

I think this was a Norma Kamali Sweater featured in Vogue

Versace featured Vogue July 1984. Bold Coat with even Bolder Shoulders

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kamali used knit fabrics in cotton and cashmere to hug the figure, than added shoulder pads into the garment. Beene used metallics and quilted them onto jackets and boleros to create this look. Miller was the designer to the stars for the TV show Dynasty. The actresses not only had big shoulders but also big hair. It was in the early nineties this changed so drastically to the long lean silhouette. But these marvelous designs from the 1980s were stand outs and defined that era of dressing, whether you liked the big shoulder or not. Here is a dress from the now defunct high end department store called Lipton’s, featured in my shop, Shuushuu by Lulu:

Lipton’s Electric Blue Wool 1980s Dress with Wide Belt (just click on picture to go to shop)

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I hope you have enjoyed this blog…Till Next Time!!!!!

 

Antonio Lopez- Fashion Illustrator

Norma Kamali Feature in Vogue- November 1984. Illustrations by Antonio Lopez

These gorgeous pages of Illustrations were created by Antonio Lopez for Vogue November 1984. The article was written by Andre Leon Tally, Fashion editor at large for Vogue and seen on last years edition of America’s Next Top Model. This fun piece of work is a feature on Norma Kamali. She is described as Kooky and over the top. She names her clothing, probably best for archiving them. So if you bought a pair of Linen ankle strap wedge shoes, they are called Ra-Ra’s. Now that many designers are going video as a medium to distribute their collections, Norma Kamali was doing this in the early 80s.

Norma Kamali Feature in Vogue- November 1984. Illustrations by Antonio Lopez

She was tuned into Pop Culture and Antonio captured her collection very well amongst this six page spread. Her vibrant colors, her sporty transitions into swim wear, body wear, body suits, ect. She certainly didn’t take herself seriously. Antonio created the above picture on the right on a computer. Must have been among the first to create illustrations with this kind of technology!!! It reminds me of Matisse’s cut outs!!!!

Norma Kamali Feature in Vogue- November 1984. Illustrations by Antonio Lopez

I will be featuring some drawings by Steven Keyes in the next Blog about Fashion Illustration…at first glance there does not seem to be very much information about him. Till Next Time!!!! Lulu

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