The 1980’s Bold Shoulder

Claude Montana was the king of the big shoulders in the 1980s. His silhouettes were fantastic and futuristic. He made them for women whom exuded the aura of strength and power. They were not in the least romantic and frilly. He brought the waist in tight using darts or belts to create the inverted triangle shape. He added the large rounded shoulder to exaggerate the figure. Claude Montana was a French Fashion designer, whom won many awards for his clothing design. His house went bankrupt in 1997. He favored monochromatic color, worked in leather, and his silhouettes were clean and structured.

Claude Montana Advertisement in Vogue March 1987

Claude Montana Advert in Vogue- model with a Cigarette

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If I remember correctly the shoulder pads used in jackets like the ones pictured above curved over the shoulder and had a crease/seam down the center to curve over the shoulder and into the top sleeve.

I did not gravitate towards this shape in my younger days. I had large shoulders already because I was a swimmer. I used to have to take the shoulder pads out of clothing to de-emphasize as I was also hour glass shaped. I loved the look created by designers like Claude Montana, Norma Kamali, Geoffrey Beene and Nolan Miller.

I think this was a Norma Kamali Sweater featured in Vogue

Versace featured Vogue July 1984. Bold Coat with even Bolder Shoulders

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kamali used knit fabrics in cotton and cashmere to hug the figure, than added shoulder pads into the garment. Beene used metallics and quilted them onto jackets and boleros to create this look. Miller was the designer to the stars for the TV show Dynasty. The actresses not only had big shoulders but also big hair. It was in the early nineties this changed so drastically to the long lean silhouette. But these marvelous designs from the 1980s were stand outs and defined that era of dressing, whether you liked the big shoulder or not. Here is a dress from the now defunct high end department store called Lipton’s, featured in my shop, Shuushuu by Lulu:

Lipton’s Electric Blue Wool 1980s Dress with Wide Belt (just click on picture to go to shop)

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I hope you have enjoyed this blog…Till Next Time!!!!!

 

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Antonio Lopez- Fashion Illustrator

Norma Kamali Feature in Vogue- November 1984. Illustrations by Antonio Lopez

These gorgeous pages of Illustrations were created by Antonio Lopez for Vogue November 1984. The article was written by Andre Leon Tally, Fashion editor at large for Vogue and seen on last years edition of America’s Next Top Model. This fun piece of work is a feature on Norma Kamali. She is described as Kooky and over the top. She names her clothing, probably best for archiving them. So if you bought a pair of Linen ankle strap wedge shoes, they are called Ra-Ra’s. Now that many designers are going video as a medium to distribute their collections, Norma Kamali was doing this in the early 80s.

Norma Kamali Feature in Vogue- November 1984. Illustrations by Antonio Lopez

She was tuned into Pop Culture and Antonio captured her collection very well amongst this six page spread. Her vibrant colors, her sporty transitions into swim wear, body wear, body suits, ect. She certainly didn’t take herself seriously. Antonio created the above picture on the right on a computer. Must have been among the first to create illustrations with this kind of technology!!! It reminds me of Matisse’s cut outs!!!!

Norma Kamali Feature in Vogue- November 1984. Illustrations by Antonio Lopez

I will be featuring some drawings by Steven Keyes in the next Blog about Fashion Illustration…at first glance there does not seem to be very much information about him. Till Next Time!!!! Lulu

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